Speaking at the inaugural BRC x H&M Fashion Sustainability Summit in London earlier this year, Marcus Hartmann, head of public affairs & sustainability for H&M in Northern Europe, highlighted how the retailer is embracing transparency, seeing it as an opportunity to improve rather than something to shy away from.

“We want to be transparent because we think it’s important, and it also opens us up to scrutiny and investigations, which we welcome,” said Hartmann. “These things push us to do even better and hold ourselves accountable.”

H&M has been publishing detailed sustainability reports for over two decades, providing a comprehensive look at its supply chain, environmental impact, and progress on various initiatives. The fashion retailer also publishes its full supplier list on its website.

However, Hartmann acknowledges the significant challenges that H&M and the wider fashion industry face in pursuing sustainability goals.

For example, as part of its circular fashion initiative, the fashion giant rolled out design strategies to reduce waste through its Conscious Collection, the range, which closed in 2022, incorporated organic, recycled, or sustainably sourced materials. It has also launched a clothing recycling programme.

“At the end of the day, we still need to act. We need to change because we’re at a tipping point. It’s happening, and we need to act now,” he added.

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Despite these initiatives, H&M has faced scepticism and lawsuits, particularly following accusations of greenwashing. In 2022, the retailer was criticised after reports revealed that its product scorecards, designed to inform customers about the environmental impact of its items, were misleading.

The scorecards allegedly misrepresented the environmental benefits of some products, prompting H&M to withdraw the initiative and reassess its sustainability claims.

This controversy is not the first time H&M’s environmental efforts have been questioned, as critics point to the inherent contradictions in the fast fashion model—where mass production and rapid turnover of styles often undermine sustainability goals.

While H&M’s Conscious Collection, which featured items made from organic and recycled materials, was a step forward, it only constituted a small fraction of the brand’s overall product line, which could’ve been a reason why the line was shuttered.

Additionally, its garment recycling programmes, though promising, have faced criticism for not achieving the scale necessary to significantly impact waste reduction.

In response to these concerns, H&M has begun disclosing the environmental impact of each product and providing more details on the attributes that reduce an item’s environmental footprint.

As the retailer continues to push forward with ambitious goals—such as its pledge to use 100% sustainable or recycled materials by 2030 and become climate positive by 2040—the question remains whether these efforts will be enough to overcome the inherent contradictions of driving sustainability at a fast fashion retailer.

H&M’s willingness to embrace transparency and address past missteps may help it regain consumer trust, but true sustainability will require the company to rethink its entire business model, not just implement surface-level changes.

“Transparency is our responsibility,” Hartmann explained. “We can’t shy away from challenges. We need to keep pushing ourselves.”

This commitment to continuous improvement and openness could be key to ensuring that H&M’s sustainability efforts are more than just a marketing tool, but a genuine path towards a more sustainable future for fashion.

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It also took home Retail Gazette’s Fashion Game Changer award last month.

The retailer, which will turn 10 next year, is bringing eco-conscious fashion to the masses and is now sold in 200 stores worldwide, having doubled its bricks-and-mortar presence year on year.

“We’ve got incredible reach. We’re obviously on M&S,” says founder Andrew Xeni. “They dress half the nation in one way, shape, or form, so that gives us incredible exposure.”

The M&S connection

M&S first began its partnership with Nobody’s Child in 2020 when it became the first third-party brand sold on M&S.com. It helped kickstart what is a burgeoning part of M&S’ business, as the retailer now sells close to 100 brands online with partner sales up 40% year on year in its latest half year.

Nobody’s Child remains a top performer for the retailer. Earlier this year, when it revealed it would bring Nobody’s Child pop-ups to 60 M&S stores, the retail giant’s director of third party brands Nishi Mahajan said “they continue to be one of the most-loved by our customers”.

Majahan said that Nobody’s Child helped make M&S “the destination for dresses during the spring/summer season”.

She added: “Our partnership with Nobody’s Child is a proof point to the success of our Brands at M&S strategy – when we get the partnership right, everyone wins.”

It’s perhaps unsurprising that M&S sought to deepen the relationship between the pair when it acquired a 27% stake in the brand in May 2022, and a year later, injected further funding in Nobody’s Child.

This strategic investment was aimed at bolstering Nobody’s Child’s growth and sustainability efforts while allowing M&S to offer more eco-friendly fashion options to its customers.

On the investment, Xeni says: “What convinced me was the dedication of M&S’s leadership team to drive change; their commitment resonated deeply with our values at Nobody’s Child.”

It certainly seems like a harmonious relationship.

Xeni says the “collaboration isn’t just about expanding our footprint; it’s about mutual growth”.

“We constantly challenge each other to innovate and improve,” he says. “This dynamic pushes both teams to excel, offering customers a diverse and inclusive fashion experience. It’s a partnership where both brands are culturally aligned, focused on sustainability and inclusivity.”

“We’re both keeping each other on our toes, which is great for the customer.”

The closeness has led some to speculate that M&S could increase its stake in the brand. Xeni admits: “I think it’s fair to say that they probably would.”

However, he stresses there are no active discussions right now. “Everyone’s happy with the overall performance and impact on both businesses,” he says.

Nobody’s Child is certainly soaring right now, with revenue having more than quadrupled in its last two financial years to £26m, and net sales forecast to grow a further 50% this year.

Third party sales represents the bulk of revenue, and soared 87% to £14m in its last financial year.

Its relationship with M&S has not stopped Nobody’s Child’s partnering with other retailers.

Xeni says: “John Lewis is great for us, Next continues to grow. Asos we’ve been consistent on while N Brown as partners also do well, so in every channel we seem to perform well.”

“They’re all at different shapes and sizes. Obviously, M&S is only a minority shareholder, so we operate pretty independently, but they’ve got an amazing footprint to help us grow.”

Sustainable fashion

Xeni set up Nobody’s Child in 2015 to deliver stylish, affordable clothing with a strong commitment to ethical practices.

With fabric choice accounting for up to 80% of a product’s environmental footprint, that’s where its focus lies.

Nobody’s Child collaborates with manufacturers and factories across Europe to help sources new and innovative textiles.

Currently 90% of its clothing is made from responsible fabrics, and Xeni says it is working hard on the remaining 10%.

Another key part of its sustainability strategy is the introduction of its digital product passport  earlier this year, for which it picked up Retail Gazette’s Fashion Game Changer award last month.

The passport, launched ahead of upcoming EU product transparency legislation, offers shoppers full visibility into where their clothes come from.

Nobody’s Child works closely with suppliers to collate hundreds of data points to track each stage of a garment’s journey from the raw materials to its final arrival at the distribution centre.

By scanning a QR code on the label, customers can access this information. The passport also breaks down carbon emissions, provides practical care tips, and offers links to circular services for repairs, alterations, rentals, and pre-loved options.

“We have an ambition by the end of this year, to make sure that, at least in production, every product has passports embedded in it,” Xeni shares.

He adds that the digital product passports have been “well-received, creating a positive halo effect and increasing customer trust”.

“We invest as much as any other top one percentile in sustainability,” he adds. “We are quite happy to compromise a level of profitability to protect our credentials because we believe long term that’s what’s gonna give us our brand equity.”

And it seems like this is just the beginning for DPPs.

Tesco revealed over the summer that it would roll them out across its F&F clothing range in partnership with Xeni’s data and technology business Fabacus.

Although this is a big move forward for transparency in the fashion industry, it comes at a time where ultra-fast fashion giant Shein continues to soar, despite criticism over its opaque supply chain.

As the leader of a brand that has sustainability at its core, Xeni says: “I don’t think value fashion and sustainability can necessarily go hand in hand.”

Nobody’s Child strives to deliver “as sustainable as possible fashion at value prices” with Xeni admitting its sweet spot for eco-friendly dresses is around £70.

He expresses his frustration with the UK government’s slow progress in implementing updated sustainability and ethical fashion regulation.

“It’s a little bit disappointing that the UK government is seemingly so far behind,” he remarks, contrasting it with the EU’s more sophisticated sustainability framework.

International ambitions

Nobody’s Child may have an expanding presence on the UK high street due to its M&S shop-in-shops and three stores – the largest of which opened in Covent Garden this summer – however, it is also growing overseas.

Through its M&S partnership it opened in Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Dubai and it is stocked online with department stores Nordstrom and Von Maur.

Last year, it also launched in Canadian department store Hudson’s Bay, in Australian department store Myer, as well as in Europe and the Middle East.

“International for us has been really encouraging, the early indicators have been solid,” Xeni says.

However, there are no firm plans to open its own stores overseas yet.

Xeni says it will do this in a “very, very considered” manner and will ensure its decisions are informed and calculated.

He admits he has “a phobia about going backwards” and does not want to risk the retailer’s balance sheet while expanding.

The success of Nobody’s Child’s pop-up shops was a big learning experience in paving the way for permanent UK expansion and provided valuable customer feedback. It has also helped bolster the top line with its Carnaby Street pop up alone contributing £1.1m to sales over its last financial year.

Product expansion

It is not just physical space where Nobody’s Child is growing, it is also expanding its product range.

“Expanding categories has been a big focus right now,” Xeni says, stressing the need to demonstrate that the brand is more than just beautiful summer dresses.

In the last three years, it has launched casualwear, bags, knitwear, tailoring, swimwear, and denim, all of which have “seen strong success”.

The retailer has also teamed up with premium footwear brand Alohas and expanded into outerwear and partywear.

Xeni says: “We’ve obviously elevated the brand a lot. We’ve got some beautiful premium stuff coming out of India and these are categories and products that we’ve not ordinarily produced.”

With product, store and and digital expansion on the horizon, the future looks bright for Nobody’s Child as it looks to bring its ethical fashion to the masses.

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Eligible Amazon orders will now be able to be collected at most of the supermarket’s stores across the UK, with more locations set to be added across the coming months.

The tie-up is designed to make shopping at the grocery giant more convenient for customers, who will be able to do their weekly shopping alongside collecting and returning their parcels in one trip.

The scheme also slashes the need for additional shipping boxes, with shoppers able to turn the item in the original manufacturer’s packaging.

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The grocer’s vice president of logistics Chris Hall said: “This collaboration with Amazon just in time for Christmas marks another landmark moment, not just for our larger stores, but our ever-expanding Asda Express convenience estate.

“By bringing essential services like Amazon parcel pickup and return drop-offs closer to where our customers live and work, we’re able to provide greater convenience to more of the communities we serve across the UK.”

Amazon UK country manager John Boumphrey added: “We work hard to offer customers low prices on a wide selection of products, with fast, convenient delivery options and easy returns.”

“This collaboration with Asda makes it even easier for customers to pick up ordered items when they’re shopping, or make hassle-free returns at more than 700 locations around the country.”

The partnership comes as the supermarket chain’s hold on the grocery sector continues to dip further.

Its market share dropped one percentage point from 13.5% to 12.5% as sales fell 5.5% in the 12 weeks to 3 November.

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The takeback scheme boxes are now available in new locations including Birmingham Bullring, Cardiff, and Inverness.

Launched in June 2023 as part of the high street giant’s Plan A roadmap to Net Zero, the scheme allows customers to recycle any form of plastic or aluminium beauty packaging – from bottles and tubes to caps, pumps, and tubs – from any retailer, by dropping their used beauty packaging into boxes located within the store’s beauty section.

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Since launching last year, over 1.6 tonnes of beauty packaging has been processed, which otherwise might have ended up in landfill.

M&S head of sustainability, clothing & home Katharine Beacham said: “At M&S, we want to play our part in driving a more circular economy and the circularity services we offer are key to this.

“Since launching last year, our Beauty Takeback Scheme has proven hugely popular, providing a convenient option for customers to recycle their beauty products.

“We’re delighted to be able to introduce the scheme to even more of our stores across the UK this month, to enable them to give their empty beauty packaging another life.”

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The £450m solar park, developed by Quinbrook Infrastructure Partners on farmland near Faversham, will provide Tesco with up to 10% of its UK electricity needs over the next 15 years, generating enough renewable energy to power the stores for a year.

The site will feature over 560,000 solar panels and energy storage infrastructure, making it a “significant contributor to the UK’s renewable energy landscape,” with EDF providing power balancing and shaping services to facilitate the agreement.

Construction started early last year, and is thought to be operational by the beginning of next year. According to the grocery giant, the deal represents the largest corporate power purchase deal for a solar farm in the UK.

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Tesco CEO Ken Murphy said: “We’re delighted to be announcing such a significant step in our journey towards carbon neutrality across our own operations by 2035.  

“With its ability to provide vital energy storage infrastructure, it’s a key part of the renewable energy strategy in the UK, and further evidence of our commitment to tackle climate change and source green electricity from innovative projects like this.”

Over the past five years, the supermarket has worked on multiple energy projects, helping the retailer source green electricity directly from windfarms and solar parks across the UK.

With the addition of Cleve Hill, these power purchase agreements will cover 45% of Tesco UK’s – or 36% of the group’s – expected electricity demand in 2030.

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With customers expecting everything from next-day delivery to easy returns, and the rise of social commerce making things even more complex, retailers are under pressure to keep up. Add to that the huge increase in sustainability regulations (up 155% in the last decade), and it’s no wonder brands are finding it hard to balance growth and efficiency.

That’s exactly where the latest report from GXO comes in. It explores five of the biggest logistics challenges that retailers face today and reveals how plugging into a flexible, tech-forward fulfilment solution could be the key to navigating these hurdles and staying ahead of the curve. Let’s break it down.

Challenge 1: Controlling costs

Retailers are finding it tougher than ever to keep costs under control, especially with inflation and unpredictable demand. But the report highlights a simple solution: multi-client fulfilment. Instead of investing heavily in warehouse space and technology upfront, retailers can plug into GXO Direct’s network of premium facilities, sharing costs with other brands. It’s a ‘pay as you grow’ model that offers flexibility, better access to resources and a chance to scale operations without breaking the bank.

Challenge 2: Keeping up with dynamic demand

From viral social media trends to unpredictable market shifts, we all know that demand can change in an instant. Forecasting becomes a guessing game and that’s where many brands struggle. According to the report, a logistics partner that can scale up or down with demand is crucial. Whether it’s expanding warehouse space or increasing workforce size during peak seasons, a flexible fulfilment system allows retailers to respond quickly without missing a beat.

Challenge 3: Elevating the customer experience

Logistics plays a direct role in shaping customer satisfaction. Out-of-stock products, late deliveries or clunky returns processes can be deal-breakers for shoppers. The report found that efficient logistics – powered by advanced warehouse management systems – can improve stock visibility, ensure orders are accurate and streamline returns. This boosts customer loyalty and helps brands stay competitive, even in a crowded market.

Challenge 4: Moving beyond manual operations

As technology advances, the retail industry is racing to keep up. Outdated, manual operations can slow down processes and hurt a brand’s reputation. Adaptive technology is the answer, and the report points out how retailers are turning to tech solutions like automation and robotics to speed up fulfilment, reduce errors and improve safety in warehouses.

Challenge 5: Growing ethically

Sustainability isn’t just a buzzword; it’s becoming a must-have for retailers. The report highlights how brands are feeling the pressure from both consumers and regulators to adopt greener practices. Whether it’s cutting down on waste, recycling returned goods or finding ways to operate more efficiently, a logistics partner can help retailers build ethical, environmentally friendly operations that still drive growth.

The bottom line

The report makes one thing acutely clear: in today’s fast-moving retail environment, having the right logistics partner is more important than ever. GXO Direct’s multi-client fulfilment model offers flexibility, cutting-edge technology and cost savings that can help brands not just survive but thrive. Whether you’re looking to scale, improve customer satisfaction or achieve ethical growth, plugging into this solution could be the key to unlocking long-term success.

Curious to learn more? Dive into the full white paper for deeper insights into how logistics can help your brand grow.

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Retailers and brands including Tesco – which recently unveiled a facility that turns surplus food into animal feed – Aldi, Nestlé and Princes have signed a letter to environment secretary Steve Reed as a first step towards cutting waste, The Guardian reported.

They insist forcing businesses to confront the reality of their food waste will lead to better behaviour, including increased efforts to reuse surplus food and more efficient processes.

The move comes as the government aims to halve food waste by 2030, but has not yet introduced measures to meet this goal.

The letter was organised by Too Good to Go co-founder Jamie Crummie and the British Retail Consortium.

The food waste app co-founder said: “Food waste is one of the largest contributors to climate change. In the UK alone, we throw away 10.7m tonnes of food annually.

“We are delighted to see the environment secretary set out the creation of a zero-waste economy as a priority. In line with this ambition, and with the support of more than 30 businesses from across the food sector, we hope to see swift implementation of mandatory food waste reporting to ensure transparency and accountability when it comes to our food.”

The Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs added: “The amount of food we waste is a stain on our country. We are working with business to drive down food waste and make sure food is put on the plates of those in greatest need.

“This includes supporting surplus food to be redistributed to charities and others that can use it and on programmes to help citizens reduce their food waste.”

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The move will cover more than 160 HGVs based at the German discounter’s Cardiff, Swindon and Neston distribution centres, and is expected to cut Aldi’s carbon emissions by approximately 15,400 tonnes of CO2e per year.

If introduced across Aldi’s entire fleet of over 550 HGVs, the change could reduce an additional 55,100 tonnes of CO2e per year.

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Aldi national sustainability director Liz Foz said: “Switching to HVO fuels on our lorry fleet aligns with our long-term sustainability goals and reflects our commitment to reducing our carbon emissions.

“We are always looking for ways to continue our efforts to drive positive change across the business and this move in particular is a significant milestone for Aldi.”

Earlier this month, the grocer unveiled its largest ever package of annual investment, ploughing £800m into accelerating its expansion across Britain as its sales and profits spike.

In the 12 months leading up to December 2023, the discounter’s sales jumped by £2.4bn to £17.9bn – a 16% surge that marked its highest-ever sales growth.

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The online giant’s new design, created in collaboration with packaging experts Mondi, features a lightweight, shock-proof lining made entirely from paper, eliminating the need for plastic bubble wrap.

This innovation allows the envelopes to be recycled at home, offering an eco-friendly alternative to traditional packaging.

Amazon said the new envelope, which has already started arriving on doorsteps, is designed to protect deliveries without sacrificing safety or functionality.

The lightweight packaging reduces the average shipment weight by 44g compared to equivalent-sized cardboard boxes and optimises space, eliminating the need for additional protective materials like paper dunnage.

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The online giant said customers want rightsized, recyclable packaging that minimises waste and ensures damage-free delivery.

“When this is not an option, we optimise the type, material, and weight of our packaging to increase circularity, avoid waste, and reduce carbon emissions — without sacrificing safety or functionality,” it said.

It called its latest design “simple and effective, and designed to keep products securely in place, while at the same time absorbing stress put on the package during its journey to customers’ homes”.

Amazon European head of sustainable packaging Thais Blumer said: “Amazon stopped using traditional bubble-wrap padded envelopes in Europe several years ago, which presented a challenge to develop light, flexible and fully recyclable paper packaging that provides the same protection.

“Achieving both low weight and maximum protection with a 100% recyclable paper envelope was not an easy task, but these envelopes are easy to pack, simple for customers to recycle at home, and enable damage-free deliveries.”

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